"University" Dance Ensemble, Tbilisi, May 2007

More of those motion-blurred dancers. How else can one show the movement in a still image? (There is a technique which uses both slow shutter speed and flash together in one frame, for blur AND sharpness. I haven't tried much of that yet; it's a future challenge.)

Dearest Mom,

Happy Birthday!

Thinking of you from across the world. Hope you have a good one.

All my love,

Ant

"University" Dance Ensemble, Tbilisi, May 2007

I've posted some motion-blurred shots of Georgian dance on the blog earlier - near its beginning. This concert, however, was the first time I had unfettered access to the whole show, freedom to shoot as much as I wanted. Next time I hope to attend a rehearsal and be in the wings, among the dancers, above them, and in other odd places. Shutter speeds: 1/8-1/2 second. More to follow.

Cyprus, July 2007

I'm setting up my computer today in new digs; until things get up to speed with internet, &c, here are a few more from the beautiful island.

From the bottom up: Cavo Greko, Latsi, Paphos.

the W()RD: Georgians in Cyprus

Before we abandon Cyprus altogether, here are a couple of links to it from the country where I live.

- A number of Cypriots told me that they knew of large numbers of Georgians living in Cyprus. Most of these, it turns out, are Pontic Greeks, described here:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pontic_Greeks

- The free monthly English newspaper The Paphos Times reports, in its January 2007 issue, p. 5, "Discovery of [ruins of] medieval monastery in Paphos forest". It dates back to the 10th century, and consists of a three-aisle domed church from that century, and a second, smaller church, from the late 11th-early 12th century, with renovations at the beginning and end of the 13th. In the 16th century the monatery was looted, its floors dug up and it was blown up.
Surprise, it's all Georgian, sponsored by and dedicated to that brilliant monarch, Queen Tamar (called "King Tamar" by the Georgians in honour of her greatness). So the Georgians' reach at the height of their Golden Age was not inconsiderable.

Cyprus, July 2007

Before leaving Cyprus, however, here are are a few more random shots from the island, as with all on this trip, unedited cellphone pictures. From the bottom up:

Salt lake shadow, Larnaca
Grinning house, Larnaca
Bathing my nephew, Larnaca
"Cow bell" doorbell, Tsada
Wind-operated woodcutter, Tsada

The "feet on location" portrait seems to have become a staple of mine on this journey, originating actually with some video shots I made of my feet walking on the recent trek through Svaneti.
I saw enough of Cyprus to realise that there is vastly more to explore - for future visits. In the meantime, here's hoping and praying that this divided island with its tragic and complicated history will come to reconciliation and peace. Now that would be a miracle.

the W()RD: Talking Turkey again

July 14-16, 2007

Time to make the long trek home from south Cyprus to Tbilisi, Republic of Georgia. This required:

- a multi-user taxi from Larnaca to the border crossing in Nicosia;
- a walk of about 1 km with my luggage through the border to a bus stop;
- the 1/2 hr bus to the ferry terminal at Kyrenia;
- the 2 1/2 hr ferry to Tasucu, Turkey (not for the weak of stomach, which fortunately I am not; the 2nd most expensive part of the journey, at about US$42);
- a 2 hr bus to Mersin;
- a 22 hr bus to Trabzon (slept better this time than on the outward journey; this was the most expensive leg of the trip at about US$50);
- a 3 1/2 hr bus to Hopa;
- a 1/2 hr minivan to the Tr-Ge border at Sarp;
- crossing the border on foot;
- a 1/2 hr minivan to the centre of Batumi, Georgia;
- a 15-minute minivan to the Batumi Railway station;
- an 8-hour train to Tbilisi, at least with a bed in a 4-berth cabin.

Amazing what complications a cheapskate traveller with only his own comfort to consider will achieve! This was conceivable only because I could carry my luggage for the walking bits.

More notes from Turkish signs:

- Dagwood and Blondie used as men's/women's WC signs at a gas station in central Turkey;
- Turkish petrol station chains named Starpet and Yuropet (at least there was no Carpet or Housepet);
- the question on all of Turkey's mind: Can Batman baris? (See picture...)

Paphos, Cyprus, July 2007

More cellphone images, as are all I have posted from Cyprus so far.

After the mosaic site visit, my sister and her family took me to an ancient church in Paphos which features the Column of St Paul among its many architectural treasures. More mosaics, many other columns still standing, and a small well. My sister had to rub her eyes: was that a young fox cowering in the hole? Indeed it was, on this blisteringly hot day, with no indication of how long it had been trapped. I climbed in to see in what condition it was, but my appearance panicked it into frantic flights around the walls. A long branch inserted was no way out, so my brother-in-law then descended with a cloth, with which he helped the madly clambering animal rocket all of the way out and off into the distance. It was well enough to run, as we saw, and we could only hope it would find enough food and water to make up for its incarceration. "Catch for us the little foxes..."

(The church at bottom was not the main church on the site, but a much smaller, more ruined one, also well worth exploring though in sad condition.)

Paphos, Cyprus, July 2007

There's an amazing UN Heritage site at Paphos, containing many excavated Roman buildings with well-preserved mosaic floors, a small amphitheatre, and other delights. Obviously the rich and powerful lived here. The only blot on the experience was a temperature of something near 40 C, with no wind. I made the most of it, and managed to consume 3 ice creams for lunch outside the site after a couple of hours' looking around - no appetite for anything but the coldest stuff.

From this day, the sound of extreme heat - the hottest I can remember having to endure for any length of time outside a sauna - for me will always be the bizarre mechanical buzz of the cicada. Interestingly enough, this large insect spends most of its life (sometimes many years) larvally underground, emerging ONLY in prime number year intervals to enjoy a brief adulthood. Very odd.

the w()rd: Greek to me

Now's the time that all that Russian language familiarity comes into use again, in a new way, boosted by a bit of mathematics symbology: reading the Greek alphabet on Cyprus! Some favourite discoveries:

"Exodos" means "exit", & is used in signs everywhere, e.g. on all the roads

"Taxi" means "OK" AND "taxi"

"Evkharisto" (eucharist) means "thank you"

There are signs up all over the place for Tony's this and that - quite a popular name...

Cavo Greko, Cyprus, July 2007

The east side of the island. Gotta luv that magnificent blue water, so clear. Having a great time. Wish you were here.

Larnaca, Cyprus, July 2007

First views (cellphone camera) of the city where I'm holidaying with my younger sister and her husband, who is from the island.

Bottom: views from our apartment window.

Middle: the Sea...

Top: The Church of Lazarus. http://www.planetware.com/larnaca/st-lazarus-church-cy-la-laza.htm has this to say about it:

"In the old town of Larnaca is St Lazarus's Church, with the relics of the Saint.
"Saint Lazarus is the patron saint of Larnaca. After his resurrection by Christ, he lived here for another 30 years. He was ordained Bishop of Kition by saints Barnabas and Mark.
"His relics are located in this church, created in his honor.
"The church was built in the ninth century by Emperor Leo VI and was faithfully restored in the 17th century, and the iconostasi is an excellent example of Baroque woodcarving.
"Its white painted belfry is highly distinctive and escaped the Turkish ban on such structures.
"It has four domes over the nave and the roof is supported on four sets of double columns. The pulpit is uniquely placed in one of these columns and is lavishly decorated in gilt. In another column there is a silver icon from 1659, with a picture of St Lazarus. There are also good paintings of the Virgin and Child and St George and the Dragon. The iconostasis or screen between the altar and the main church is a good example of wood carving in the Baroque style.
"Eight days before Greek Orthodox Easter, the icon of St Lazarus is taken in procession through the streets of Larnaca."

Waiting for the Ferry, Tasucu, Turkey

Well, I couldn't just sulk in my motel room for 23.5 hours waiting for the next ferry to Cyprus, could I? Especially as it was a 1-star. So I went out with the cellphone camera.

Bottom: my feet hit the Mediterranean Sea for the first time in my life (as I recall).

Middle: Shore... and an old boat.

Top: One of many glass eyes whose purpose is to ward off the Evil Eye curse. But this superstition is found in many other places too, including Greek Cyprus, where I am now...

The w()rd: Let's talk Turkey

Because that's where I am at the moment, en route to Cyprus after 23 hrs on a bus, which got me to the ferry terminal 1/2 hr late for the day's crossing (no one's fault). ;Scuse me ıf my typıng,s a bıt messed up, but I thought I,d emulate the frustratıons of a dıfferent keyboard layout for you.

Some notable place names in Turkey:
Batman ('nuff said)
Hayrat, home of the infamous hayrat (insert your own story here, best one wins a prize)
Of. Just Of. Origin place of such famous phrases or uses (here presented in their original versions) as:
- What are you thinking, Of?
- Is this milk a bit Of?
- the On/Of switch
- Of to the races
- The Sound of Of music
- poised to take Of

I also passed by Tarsus, birthplace of one Saul (later Paul), who wrote most of the New Testament though he was a major enemy of the Christıans before that. Have to stop there next time.

Another fascinating sıgn I noticed is for the Elif Un Fabrikası (Transl.: Elif Un Factory), where everything is unmade, undone, all words beginning with un having their origin here.

Finally, Final Tea comes from this part of the world - its name evoking strange feelings that this cup of tea would be my last. Such a Final name, isn't it?

The Elusive Ushba, Svaneti, June 2007

In the 2.5 weeks of this last trip to Svaneti, the weather was fairly cloudy much of the time. It kept things cool for the walk, which was useful; and made for some very atmospheric photography. But it also meant that Mt Ushba was hidden most of the time; we saw her well only in Etseri, before the walk started, and again here, as it was ending.

This was the last morning of the walk, and our only camping day, on the pass between Ipari and Mestia, spectacular views from both sides. The little spring-fed lake is about 5 minutes' walk from where the tent was pitched, both tent and lake away from view of the roads. I had gone to get water for cooking, but I hurried back to the camp to fetch my camera when I realised that Ushba had come into view (the twin peaks just right of centre). As well as shooting film, I used my cellphone's little 2 MPixel camera, so this again is a sneak preview of better things to come.

Mestia, Svaneti, June 2007

Sneak preview - a cellphone timer shot of Jeff & me & the Nightmare (before she escaped us the first time & earned her name) at the entrance sign to Mestia, capital town of Svaneti. Just a snapshot, much better things ahead - but something to whet your appetite for photos of the 111-km, 7-rolls-of-film Svaneti walk. Also, a demonstration that Georgia, with its own alphabet (top left) is NOT in Russia. Again.

A New Svaneti Link

For those especially interested in Internet links to Svaneti, here's a good one I've just found:
http://www.svanetitrekking.ge/eng/about.htm
They're trying to develop (or I should say redevelop) Svaneti as a trekker's and general tourist's paradise. 20 years ago it was crawling with tourists, I'm told, but the breakup of the USSR and of Georgia itself was especially hard on this region. So people remember the good old days, but need help getting back to them. This site looks like a big step in the right direction. Good background material as well.

Back from Svaneti

Dear viewers,

On June 21 I returned from the mountains, back into internet contact in Tbilisi. (Well, Mestia does now have a free satellite internet station, NGO-based, but I could only use that once on the trip.) More news to follow, along with the usual daily postings you have come to expect from me.

Soon...

Back from "A Walk on the Wild Side"

After several weeks of absence, leaving pre-drafted posts for friends to post for me while I was away from the internet, I'm back. 111 km of walking through magnificent Svaneti with a friend, our baggage on a horse which eventually earned the name Nightmare. There's plenty to show and tell, including material from 7 rolls of film and about 1/2 hr of video footage from my cellphone, some of which I hope to post to youtube and link to the blog. But first I'm soon off again, to Cyprus for about 3 weeks of holiday with family. As my situation in Tbilisi is curently "between apartments", with all my stuff in limbo/storage until mid-July, blog posting might be expected to be a bit thin for a while. But never fear - I do actually have a lot of extra material ready in the wings to keep you entertained until the new Svaneti images are ready. So stay tuned, faithful

Venice, February-March 2003

Two more of that winged lion motif.