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Wednesday, 12 March 2008

The Downside of an Ushguli Winter

March 12, 2008

We interrupt our regular programming to bring you this special report.

Having heard that last week, within hours of the caterpillar coming at last to clear our road of snow and restore Ushguli to Planet Earth, avalanches had followed it and closed the road again, I determined to walk down and see the damage for myself. We have now been roadless since February 15 - we won't count the caterpillar's work because it arrived in the evening and that same night the road was re-closed by snow and rock falling.

Here, from today, are my cellphone shots of the successive avalanches, each 3-4 m in height.

Last week, a friend on the phone from Tbilisi asked me what we're eating, in this isolated condition. "Each other," I replied, to great amusement. Not true yet - we have plenty of stored food and livestock, and then there are always shoes to boil, and bark off the trees. Plenty of snow for water.

Seriously, Ushguli does feel the strain of being cut off from the world every winter for weeks or months. A university student here during a 6-week break had to cross that nightmare on horseback to return to Mestia for his transport back to Tbilisi. An elderly lady here, one of my colleagues in the school, lost her sister and brother-in-law in another part of Georgia last week. She must get to the funeral. The school badly needs firewood; the classrooms are much too cold, and children are more susceptible to flu and other common diseases of winter. These are all minor worries, however, compared to what will happen if there's a medical emergency now - someone could easily die.


Monday, 10 March 2008

Etseri, late Jan-early Feb. 2008

It's about time!

Yes indeed, it's taken me a long time to get back online for long enough to post some more images to the old blog. Here are some from Etseri, as promised. Bottom to top:

Sergo's little helper on the hay-round

A local friend after an hour's walk through a showfall

Shorts of wood

Etseri winter scenery

Valya the Valiant, Etseri and region's unsung heroine, medicine woman, on her rounds. The intravenous drip, hanging from a clothes-horse (is that what you call it?) saved the man's life: he was severely dehydrated after the runs, and we rode on horseback 2 hours to reach him.

The shortest watchtower in Svaneti, near Pari, and only a few km from the tallest, which is in Etseri and on this blog already.